Buttonhole-sewing machine.



No. 694,!50. Patented Feb. 25, |902,4 .1. T. HOGAN. uTTbNHoLE `sewme. MACHINE.

(Application md June so, 1899.)

5 Sheets-s heet l.

:(No Modem' LLL."

. Patented Feb. 25, |902. J. T. HOGAN'. y BUTTONH-ULESEWING MACHINE.

(Application filed June 30, 1899.)

5 Sheets-Sheet 2.

(No Model.) 4

. Y a Q orunrmo.. wAsmraoTan n c THE Sheet 4.

Patented Feb'. 25, |902.`

l 5 Sheets- -.1. T. HOGAN. BuTToNHoLE sewms MACHINE.

(Application led June 80, 1899.)

(No Model.)

' No. 694,!50. Patented Feb. 25, |902.

,.1. T'.l HoGAN.

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

(ApplicationV led June 80, 1899.)

5 Shets-Shet 5.

(No Model.)

INVENTOR J/meSfH-Ojm All. o/

me Noam; persas co PHUTaLITHo, wAsnlNsmm u. c,

PATENT JAMES T. HOGAN, OF JERSEY CITY, NEW JERSEY, ASSIGNOR TO THE' NATIONAL MACHINE COMPANY, CORPORATION OF NEW YORK.

BUTTO-NHOLE-SEWINC MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 694,150, dated February 25, 1902. Application filed June 30, 1899. Serial No. 722,397. (No model.)

chines, of which the following is a specificaf tion.

Myinvention relates to abuttonhole-sewing machine, and has for its object to produce an automatic mechanism by which a buttonhole may be sewed having rows of side and barring stitches, the latter at substantially a right angle to the former, across the ends of the butj tonhole-slit.

My invention comprises means to produce, irst,a relative feeding movement between the sewing mechanism and the work support lengthwise of a buttonhole and simultaneously therewith a relative vibratory movelment between said devices to sew a row of side or binding stitches; second, means to suspend this relative feeding and vibratory *snovelr t, and, third, after the suspension of auch movements means to produce a relative Afeeding movement between the sewing mechanism and the work-support transversely to the length of a buttonhole and simultane' ously therewith a relative vibratory movement between said devices to form a row of side or barring stitches.

As one means of accomplishing the object of my invention I have devised the following mechanism, which I will describe and then pointout the novel features thereof in the claims.

In the accompanying drawings,Figure 1 is a side elevation of a machine embodying my improvement, a portion of the base being broken away to economize space. Fig. 2 is an end elevation, a cover for certain parts of .the needle-operating mechanism being removed and the base being broken away to economize space. Fig. 3 is a plan or top View of certain parts and a horizontal section of others. Fig. eis a horizontal section taken partly in a plane indicated by line 4. 4 of Fig. 1 and partly in a slightly-higher plane. Fig. 5 is a vertical section in a plane indicated by line 5 5, Fig. 1. Fig. 6 is a vertical section in a plane indicated by line G G, Fig. Fig.

7 is a diagram illustrating the position of side stitches and barring-stitches in a buttonhole produced by the machine. It is not, however, intended to indicate the character of the stitchings. Fig. 8 is an inverted plan of the machine. Fig. 9 is a vertical section taken in a plane of the line 9 9, Fig. 8, but with some of the parts in positions different from those they occupy in Fig. 8. Fig. 10 is a vertical section taken partly in different planes, the planes being indicated by line 10 10, Figs. 8 and 3. Fig. 11 is an inverted plan showing cams for imparting certain movements to the work-carrier or cloth-clamp during the formation of barring-stitches. Fig. 12 is an inverted plan on a somewhat-enlarged scale, illustrating a double pawl mechanism. Fig. 13 is an inverted plan of certain cam lnechanisms for operating the double pawl mechanism j ust referred to and another pawl mechanism which serves to rotate the cams which are more particularly shown in Fig. 11. Fig. 14 is` an inverted plan illustrating a modi= fication of one of the cams shown in Fig. 11 for the purpose of making a somewhat-different disposition of the barring-stitches. Fig. 15 is a diagram of the character of the diagram Fig. 7, but showing a different disposition of barring-stitches resulting from the modified construction illustrated by Fig. 14. Fig. 16 is an inverted plan illustrating a preferred form of the cam-follower which is used in connection with one of the cams shown in Figs.11 and 14. Fig. 17 is a section on the -plane of the line 17 17, Fig. 16. Fig. 18 is an inverted plan showing a modified form of the cams for imparting certain movements to the work-support during the formation of barring-stitches. Fig. 19 is a section on the plane of the line a; oc, Fig. 18.

Similailetters of reference designate corresponding parts in all the figures.

A designates a sewing-machine head which may be of any suitable form. As shown, it has a base-plate A and a horizontal arm'A2. At the end of the arm is fitted a needle-bar A3 in the frame a, the said bar being reciprocated vertically in the usual manner by a crank and pitman actuated by the main driving-shaft B. The frame a is pivoted on studs a2 a2 to permit of its vibration in the manner portion a1" of a part attached to the work-feed mechanism. Passing through the plate 61.3

and seated at its lower end in theplate et@ is a post or stud A6, which supports a spring A7 between its head and the plate a3,which spring serves te hold the foot a3 in position to secure the work to the plate d6.

A3 designates an arm of suitable construction hinged to the bracket am, secured to the base-plate and having at its end @15 a treadle attachment. yForming a part of arm A3 is a cam (L13, which when the treadle is operated depresses the extension ct13 of plate a3, thereby raising the foot a3 to release the work.

A3 designates a stop-piece secured to the arm A3, which stop bears against the rear edge of the base-plate.

A1o designates the shuttle mechanism, which may be of any approved construction, and A11 a pitman for operating the same, said pitman being attached to a crank on the shaft F, actuated by the main driving-shaft by the usual and well-known means.

A13 designates the usual tension device for the needle-thread. A suitable tension device is also provided for the shuttle-thread.

The features above described do not, however, form a part of my invention.

Iwill first describe the mechanism by which the work-support isfed lengthwise of a buttonhole to sew a row of side stitches, and I will'rstate here that only during such time is theneedle-bar given a vibratory movement and also that the mechanism by which the work-support is given its feed and vibratory movements to form the barring-stitches is dormantor inactive.

Immediately below the base-plate of the machine is a plate H, having at its front and rear edges gibs H3, secured thereto by snitable means, as screws h3, which gibs support a plate H'. These plates will be more fully described hereafter, as during the formation of the side stitches they are dormant, and are referred to now as the plate H' supports certain of the parts which impart a lengthwise feed to the work-support during the formation of side stitches.

The plate H' is preferably of the construction shown and has cast therewith, so as to form one integral piece', a tubular hub H3 and vertical extensions h' h', all of which extendthrough suitable slots cut into the baseplate A'and are for the purposes hereafter described. l

F designates a shaft rotated by suitable gearing in a manner well known from lthe main driving-shaft B. The shaft F carries at its lower end a cam F', upon which rests the forked ends of a lever F3, fulerumed on a stud f3, fixed to the base-plate of the machine.

G designates a pawl-carrying lever fulcrumed on the hub L' of a ratchet-wheel L and receiving motion from the lever F3 through a connecting-link G, the ends of said levers F3 and G' being slotted, as shown, to admit of the adjustment of the link G, by means of set-screws g and g', to vary the throw of the lever G'. The lever G" carries two spring-pressed pawls, only one of which, G3, will be referred to at present, said pawl engaging the teeth of ratchet-wheel L, the hub L' of which is mounted on a boss or projection H4 of the plate H. Secured to and projecting downward from ratchet-wheel L is a pin L4, which passes between and engages fingers m5 of a plate M5, secured by suitable means, as screws m3, to a gear-wheel or pinion M3. lThis pinion is supported by its hub in a suitable bracket M3, fastened to the plate H' by means of screws m1. A cap-screw M1 takes into the hub of pinion M3 to hold the latter in position, a friction-washer m4 being interposed between the said cap-screw and bracket. The pinion M3 engages a pinion M whose hub M is secured by a pin '1n or screws to a shaft J', which shaft extends upward through the tubular hub H3 of the plate H' and carries at its upper end a feed-disk J, made in the form of a toothed gear-wheel or pinion, either cast with said shaft or separate and fastened thereto by suitable means. The pinion J is provided with a diametrical T-shaped slot J 5, which receives the head of a screw-boltj, and over this bolt the end of a pitman J3 is passed, beingcclamped in position by a cap J4, engaging the screw-threads of boltj, said cap, if preferred, havinga handle J3 to manually operate the pinion J. The pitman J3 may be adjusted radially of the pinion J in the slot J5 to produce a greater or less traverse of the work-support, according to the length of buttonhole to be sewed.

The plate H', as before described, :is provided at one end with the two vertical pieces h' 71', which extend upward through a slot A13, cut into the kbase-plate, the upper edges of said pieces being preferably flush with the upper surface of the bed-plate. Into the guideway H1 thus formed is a slide-block K, to which is secured the other end of pitman J3 by means of a screw J6, the end of the pitman J3 forming a bearing for the said screw. The slide-block K preferably extends a slight distance above the sides 7i' h' of the guideway H6 and is cnt to form a seat for the plate N, screw N'. I have shown the plate N as resting at one end upon a bearing-piece N5 and held from vertical displacement by a cap N4, secured by screws to the base-plate, although neither of these featuresA is essential. The

plate N has secured thereto by screws n an extension N3, to which is attached by screws This latter plate may be slotn' the plate a3.

which is secured to said block by a' ICO IIO

\lever F3 through cam F' and thence to the ted at its ends, asl shown at au a, to provide for lateral adjustment. The plates N and N2 instead of being in two pieces may be made as one.

The operation-of the feed mechanism so far described is as follows: The rotation of the main shaft B imparts a rocking motion to the pawl-carrying arm G'. By the oscillation of the latter the pawl G6 imparts an intermittent feed to the ratchet-wheel L, which in turn through pin L4 rotates the pinions M2, M, and J, and the last-named by its connection to slide-block K through pitman J 2 feeds the plate N and plate a6 lengthwise of a buttonhole. During this feed of the work-support the needle is given a vibrating movement transversely to the length of thebuttonhole by the mechanism I will now describe.

Secured to the shaft B by suitable means is a bevel-gear B', which engages the gear-wheel B2, mounted on a stud b2, secured toa bracket b' on Athe yarm A2. The wheel B2 has made integral therewith or .separate and attached thereto by suitable means a disk or plate B2, having therein a cam-groove b2, Figs. l and 4, engaged by a roller h6 onY a pin if, which pin Vis fastened to a lever B2, fulcrumed on a stud or shaft b4, which extends through the arm A2.

13S-designates a plate or cover secured by screws b5 to the arm A2, and this plate is cut away, as shown at h6, to provide a clearance for the pin bl. A link C is connected to the free end of lever B4 and to a bracket'or eX- tension d of a rock-lever D, which latter is fulcrumed at its center on a stud C2, Figs. 4 and 5, which stud has a bearing on a plate d2, fastened by screws c6 to the plate B5. The plate d6 may, if desired, be cast integral with plate B6. The lever D is made with side pieces, as shown, so as to form a longitudinal groove d, and slidably supported therein is a block D', provided with a boss or projection D6, on which are mounted the ends of a pitman .Dland one end ofa link D2, a cap-screw D5 engaging the boss D6 to keep the said pitman and link from being displaced. A guardplate d6, secured to the plate B5 by means of screws d?, may also be employed to prevent the pitman D4 from springing out of position.

Y The bracket d' isslotted, as shown at d2, to permit of the adjustment of link C to vary the amplitude of the vibration of the needle.

The pitman D4 at its forward end has a bear-l ing on a stud ft2, set eccentrically on a disk d5, provided with a shank a, which is set into an openingin the 4needle-bar frame a and is held rigidly thereto by means of screws d'. By adjusting the position of shank a4, and consequently the stud a3, the pitman D4 may be adjusted to compensate for any change of position of the cutter-blade.V

It will bereadily understood'froin the foregoing description that when lever B4 is oscil-` lated a rocking motion is imparted to lever D, 'thus reciprocating pitman D4 and vibratingithe'needle-bar A2. This is true except when the end of pitman D4 is brought into a position coincident with the fulcrum of lever D, when of course the said pitman would not be reciprocated.

Having thus described the mechanismby which a row of side stitches is sewed, I will now describe the means by which the operation offsuch mechanism is suspended when barring-stitches are to be formed.

To suspend the vibration of the needle-bar when barring-stitches are to be formed and to determine the position of the end of pitman D4 during the sewing of side and barring stitches, I pivotA on the boss D6 of slideblock D a link D2, which link has secured -thereto at its lower end by a screw di an arm -D7, which has vertical movement in a suitable guideway D2, formed, preferably, by A plates d d1", fastened to a bracket d, which bracket is secured to the base-plate.`

E designates a lever fulcrumed at one end on la stud E', set into a bracket E2, fastened by screws c to a plate L6, said plate being secured by screws e2 to the top of hub H2 of plate H. at e' and is secured by means of set-screw D9 to the vertically-movable arm D7, the slot c' providing a clearance for screw D9 during the barring operation.

E2 designates a cam-follower secured to lever E b screws e6 which follower rests upon the cam I',fnow to be described.

The pinion J, as before described, is secured to the upper end of shaft J'. This shaft passes through the opening in the plate L6, as indicated by dotted lines in Fig. 9. En-

gaging the pinion J is a pinion I, moimted on. Ihe saidv a stud I6, secured to the plate L6. y pinion carries on its upper face a three-step cam I', having the cam-surfaces I2 I3 I4 I5. A cap-screw I6, taking intol `the stud I6, and 'a washer I7, interposed between the head of said screw and said cam, holds the cam and pinion in frictional engagement with the plate L6. The' cam I' is slotted, as shown at i' fi', to permit of its adjustmenton pinion I, and set-screws 2 t2, taking into openings in the face of said pinion, hold the'cam I in position on the pinion.

In Figs. l, 3, 4, and 5 the parts are shown in position at the heginning'of a row o f side stitches, with the point of connection between pitman D4 and rock-lever D above the ful-` vcrum C2 of the latter, so that upon rotation, of shaft B'a vibratory movement is given the needle-bar, as before explained. During the sewing of the first row'of side stitchesther The other end ofleverE is slotted ICO IIO

cam I' is so adjusted that the face I2 supports the follower E2, and consequently the arms D7, link D2, slide-block D', and pitman'D4, in

the positions shown until said row of side stitches has been completed, at which time the follower E2 falls from the face I2 and rests upon the face I2, the face I2 passing from under the said follower on the movement of the feed-wheel in forming the last of the side stitches. The vertical distancefrom the face I2 to face I3 is such that the fall of follower E2 lowers lever E, and consequently the end of pitman Dlon slide-block D', until said end is in a position coincident with the fulcrum G2 of rock -lever D, and hence no movement whatever is imparted to pitman D1 to vibrate the needle-bar. As rotation of pinion J is also suspended during the formation of barring-stitches, as will be fully described, rotation of pinion I and cam I ceases at the same time and the end of pitman D remains as above stated until the end of the barring operation, when by the advancement of ratchet-wheel L one or two teeth at the beginning of its movement to form the second row of side stitches the pinion I is rotated to carry the face I2 from under the followenE3 and to permit said follower to fall to the face I4, over which it travels during the formation of the second row of side stitches. rlhe vertical distance t4 between'the faces I2 and I'1 is equal to the vertical distance z2, so that when the follower E2 passes the face I4 the end of pitrnan D4 is brought below the fulcrum C2 of rock-lever D a distance equal to that at which it was above during the formation of the first row of side stitchesif the two rows are to be of the same width, as is the usual practice, and hence to a position that the said pitman will be reciprocated to give 'a vibratory movement to the needle-bar in the same manner as heretofore described with reference to the first row of side stitches. When the follower E5 is brought to the end of face 14, it will be raised by the inclined face Z5 during the movement of ratchet-wheel L in the formation of the last of the side stitches, so as to rest on the face 15 during the formation of the second set of barring-stitches. This movement again brings the end of pitman D* to a position coincident with the ful-v crum C2 and suspends the vibration of the needle-bar in the same manner as before described with reference to the rst set of barring-stitches. At the end of the second barring operation .the follower E3 is raised by the inclined face i to the face l2 in position to begin the sewing of a row of side stitches on another buttonhole.

I have shown a spring D10., secured at one end tothe arm D7 and at its other to the baseplate or to the bracket d, to hold the follower E2 in positive engagement with the dierent faces of cam I'. I do not wish to be understood as limiting myself to the precise construction ofy cam shown to effect the adjustments of the end of pitman D'1 with respect to the fulcrum of rock-lever D, as any formot cam to produce this effect is withi my invention.

I have heretofore described the means by which the work-support is fed lengthwise of a buttonhole and the needle-bar given a vibratory movement during the sewing of a row of side stitches and the means to control or on a line in continuation thereof and the f follower E3 is on the face I3 of cam I' to throw the end of pitman D4 to a position coincident with fulcrum C2`of rock-lever I).

L2 designates a plate located below the ratchet-wheel L. It has a bearing on the reducedv end LS of hub H4 and is held thereon by a cap-screw H5 taking into said hub, a washer h5 being interposed between the head of the capscrew and end of the hub. The

vplate L2 does not bear against ratchet-wheel L, but is interlocked therewith by means of pin L4, extending through a slot Z in plate L2. Said pin in addition to giving motion to plate M5, as heretofore described, is brought into engagement with an end wall of slot Z to rotate the plate VL2 at a predetermined period.

The plate L2 is provided with a ratchet seg ment or rim L5, which extends over the periphery of ratchetwheel L and when carried into operative position by rotation of wheel L is positively actuated by the pawls G2 and G2 on the lever G', the length of segment L5 bey ing substantially equal to the total length of the row of barring-stitches, although it may be greater, as one or two side stitches may be made after the pawl G2 engages the segment L5, as pawl G5 being behind pawl G2 the plate L2 is advanced one or two teeth before the former is carried out of engagement with ratchet-wheel L. The advantage in employing two pawls is that the feed may be adjusted too iine to permit of the pawl which feeds the main ratchet-wheel riding over the shoulder of the ratchet-segment shown in Fig. 8. By placing one of the pawls in advance of the other the ratchet-segment will be given a positive movement to bring it into position to be engaged by the pawl of the main ratchet feed-wheel. At the beginning of a row of side stitches the plate L2 remains stationary by reason of its frictional engagement with hub'lrl4 and until the pin L4 in traveling to the right-through the slot Zis brought into contact with the right-hand end wall of said slot, when continued rotation of ratchet-wheel L carries with it the plate L2.

Z2 designates an adjustable stop-piece,which may be secured to the plate L2 over the slot Z to adjust the length of the latter, so as to cause the plate L2 to be brought into position at'the proper time.

When the end ofa row of side stitches has ICO IIC

IZO

pawl G2,which is of a width equal to the thickness of the wheel-L and plate L2, to ride over the shoulderZ3 of plate L2 and out of engagement with the teeth of wheel L and into engagement with the teeth L5 of segment L2. Although the lever G' continues to oscillate, no motion is imparted to ratchet-wheel L, and of course there will be no lengthwise feed of the work-support. The pawls G2 and G3 feed the ratchet-segment plate L2 during the formation of the barring-stitches, the last one or two teeth being advanced by the pawl G3 until the latter falls therefrom and is caused by its spring g2 to engage the teeth of wheel L, the latter being rstadvanced one or two teeth to move the face 13 of cam I' from beneath the follower E2, when the parts will be in position to begin the sewing of the second row of side stitches. During the described'movement of plate L2 the slot Z therein is moved to the right, and as wheel L and pin L4 remain sta-v tionary the said pin will be at the left-hand end of said slot when the barring operation is completed, although not necessarily 'abutting against the left-hand endl wall, the only essential being that when the wheel L is fed toI form side stitches the pin L4V shall be broughtinto contact with the right-hand end .wall of slot Z to begin the movement of plate L2 to bring the ratchet-segment L5 into position to throw pawl G3 out of engagement with wheel L at the end of the side stitches. During the time that pawl G2 is out of engagement with teeth L5 it is held away from plate L2 and in a plane to engage said teeth at the proper p time by a shank g4, abutting against a post g5, and of course then performs no work. The plate L2 also carries an adjustable trippiece L3, as shown, to bring the'barring mechanism into operative position, as will be more fully hereinafter described.

Having described the means by which the work-support is given a progressive feed lengthwise of a buttonhole, the means by which the needle-bar is given a vibratory movement during the sewing of a row of side stitches, and the means by which such movements are suspended at the end of such periods, I will now describe the means by which the work-support is given a feed transversely I to the length of a buttonhole and also a vibratory movement lengthwise thereof to sew the barring-stitches.

To the plate H, I secure two blocks H7, which extend upward through slots and are flush with the upper surface of the base-plate. To each of these blocks I fasten, by means of screws h2, a slide-plate H, which rests upon the base-plate and provides a suitable bearing-supportfor the plate H.

Rigidly secured to the base-plate A' is a stud P, having a shoulder P', which bears against the under side of said plate, the plates I-I and H' being cut away sufficiently to provide a clearance for the movement of said plates. On the stud P, I mount two cams Q and R so as to rotate freely thereon, the said cams being secured together bysuitable means, as screws r. Mounted on the same stud P is the ratchet-wheel S2, secured by pins s4 to the cam R, so that by rotation of the said ratchet-wheel a rotary movement is imparted to the cams Q and R.

S designates a pawl-carrying arm fulcrumed on the hub of this ratchet-wheel S2, and to said arm is secured, by means of a screw s, a pawl S', held in positive contact with the ratchet-wheel S2 by a spring 32.

Sis designates a clamp-nut screwed onto the end ofthe stud P, and interposed between said nut and the rat-chet-wheel S2 are frictionwashers s'.

To give the desired vibratory movement to the plate H lengthwise of the buttonhole, and hence to the work-support during the formation of barring-stitches, I may make the camsurface Q of the form shown in Fig. ll-that is, with regular recurring elevated and depressed surfaces q2 q2, respectively. Rigidly secured to the plate I-I is a'stud Q', having a shoulder q bearing` against the under surface of said plate, said stud having at its end a roller q', the whole constituting a follower, which bears against the cam Q and is moved by the rotation thereof. l

To feed the work-support transversely to the length of a buttonhole, the cam R is made of the desired shape-for exam ple,that shown in Fig. ll-and to the plate H', I secure by suitable means, such as screws, a follower R', which bears against the cam R and is held in positive contact therewith by springs H8,each secured at the end h2 to the base-plate and at the end 7i to the plate H'.

The pawl-carrier arm S is oscillated, so as to impart an intermittent feed to the ratchetv wheel S2, by means of a lever O, secured thereto by means of a screw O2, said lever de-- riving its motion from the lever F4, lto the slotted end f6 of which it is secured by a setscrew O'. The slot f6 of lever F4 permits the adjustment of lever O to vary the extent of feed of ratchet-wheel S2, and hence the closeness of the barring-stitches. e

The operation of the mechanism'just described is readily understood. By the oscillation of pawl-carrying armA S by lever O the ratchet-wheel S2 is caused to rotate ,the cams Q and R. As the first face q2 is forced against the follower Q the plate H is moved forward in a direction parallel withtherbuttonhole, and as the follower clears the face q2the spring H9, secured at its end h5 to thev base-plate and at its end h6 to the slide-plate H6, retracts the plate H and' moves it in a direction opposite to its rst movement, the follower Q' dropping into contact with the face q2. These alternate forward and back move` ments of plate H in a direction'lengthwise of the buttonhole continue during the rotation of cam Q and are communicated to plate H', held to plate H, by the gibs H3 and H2, and by IOO ,ICS

IIO

the plate H', through its hub H2, to pinion J, pitman J2, and slide-block K to plate N, to which the work-support is attached.

Simultaneously with the above-described] vibratory'movement of the work-support it is given a feed motion transversely to the length of the buttouhole by means of the cam R contacting with follower R, secured to plate H, it being evident that as said cam rotates the plate H will be moved against the resistance of springs HS in a direction controlled by the cam-surface and that the feed movement of said plate will be communicated to the Work-support through the same parts of the machine as referred to in speaking of the cam Q. The form of cam R shown in Fig. 8 is designed to give a uniform feed to the worksupport during the barring operation, and it is so constructed and adjusted with reference to the other parts of the mechanism that the plate H' is fed so as to form barring-stitches first from the center of the buttonhole-slit orY from a line in continuation thereof, if the side stitches have been carried beyond the endof the buttonhole, to one side thereof, then back across the buttonhole an equal distance on the other side thereof, and finally back to the starting-point.

To vary the extent of vibratory movement of plate H, and hence the bight of the barring-stitches, Without changing the cam Q, I provide an adjustable stop U, fixed to the base-plate and adapted to bear against the edge of plate H or gib H2. By adjusting the stopU the plate H when retracted by spring H, and hence cam Q, will have its backward movement limited by said stop, so that the follower Q" Will not rest against the face g3 of cam Q'. By thus limiting the throw of plate H the bight of the barring-stitches may be varied at pleasure.

Itis to be understood that during the formation of the side stitches the mechanism just described for giving to the Work-support a vibratory movement lengthwise of and a feed movementtransverse to the buttonhole remains dormant or inactive. For this purposel the periphery of the ratchet-wheel S2 is provided with a blank or plane surface s2 for at least the distance of one tooth, and the said Wheell is so timed with reference to the mechanism for forming the side stitches that it isbrought opposite the pawl S' at the end lof the barring operation, so that While the lever O continues to reciprocate no motion is imparted to wheel S2, and henc'e none to the plates'H and H.

To bring the ratchet-wheel S2 into position so that it may be fed by means of pawl S at the end of a row of side stitches, I advance the said Wheel by means of a finger T, slotted at 1H', so as to be movable in the supporting-screws t-t, which screws hold the finger in position on the block or bracket T,- securedtotheplatel-I. ThefingerThasloosely pivoted thereto at t2 a pawl T2, held normally in contact with ratchet-Wheel S2 by means of a spring 152.

Secured to the plate L2, as before described, is a trip-piece L2, so adjusted on said plate that it is brought into contact with the end t4 of finger T to move the latter and the pawl T2 during the sewing of the last of the side stitches, so that the ratchet-wheel S2 is advanced to bring the paWl Sl into contactwith the teeth of said wheel at the end of a row of side stitches and when barring-stitches are to be formed.' The ratchet-wheel S2 then rotates the cams Q and R. in the manner described during the formation of barringstitches and until' the blank or plain face s2 is brought opposite the pawl S. Of course the continued rotation ofplate L2 during the barring operation carries the trip-piece LS out of contact with the end of finger T, and when this occurs the spring T8 retracts the said finger and brings it into position to be again acted upon by the trip L3 at the proper time. The trip L3 is carried around by plate L2 in the movement ofthe latter, as heretofore described.

The several parts of the mechanism just described are so adjusted that during theformation of the barring-stitches the pawl G3 remains in engagement with the segment L5 of the plate L2 until at or about the time the blank or plain face s2 of ratchet-Wheel S2 is brought opposite the pawl S', so that the progressive feed movement of the work-support does not begin until motion of ratchetwheel S2 is suspended. The ratchet-Wheel L and pinion M2 make two complete rotations and the pinions M, J, and I one complete rotation for each buttonhole.

In Figs. 16 and 17 I have illustrated a preferred form of the cam-follower for adjusting the length of each row of barring-stitches. The cams R and'Q and cam-follower Q' here shown are of the same construction illustrated in Figs.'8 and 11. In order, however,

that the length of the row of barring-stitches may be varied, the cam-follower R' is secured to alever R3, fulcrumed on a stud R2, secured to the base-plate A', the plates H and H being cut suiiciently to provide a clearance for the movements of said plates. The lever R3 is slotted longitudinally at r' and the plate H at hm, and into these slots projects a pin R4, having a collar r3, which supports the pin between the platefI-l' and lever R3. The pin R4 has its upper end threaded to receive a nut r2, which serves to clamp the said pin securely to the lever R3. By adjusting the position of the pin R4 toward or from the outer end of slot r the plate H is given a greater or less throw by the cam R and any desired length may be given to the row of barring-stitches.

In Fig. 7 I have illustrated the position of the side and barring stitches in abuttonhole produced byv the machine heretofore described. In starting the machine the needle IOO is at the end of the buttonhole-slit or on a line in continuation thereof, as at the point l. The Work-support is then fed progressively lengthwise of the buttonhole, as indicated by the starting-point, the said support at the same time being given a vibrato'ry movement lengthwise of the buttonhole by the cam Q, so that this set of barring-stitehes does not overlap the side stitches. The parts are then l in position to sew the other row of side stitches when the work-support is fed in a reverse direction, as indicated by the arrow y, to form'y the second row of side stitches, when the needle is again brought to .the point l and the second row of barringstitches formed in the same manner as the first row; but as the work-support is vibrated in the saine direction as before the second row of barringstitches will overlap the side stitches, as clearly indicated.

In Fig. 14Ihave illustrated a modification of the cam Q for thepurpose of differently disposing the barring-stitches. I arrange the projections q2 and recesses qs symmetricallyron the cam Q and make the recess tf1-that is, the recess in which the follower Q rests during the formation of the side sttches-one-half the depth of the recesses qs. By such construction when rotation of cam Q brings the irst face qz--that one immediately to the left of follower Q of Fig. 14-into contact with said follower the work-support is moved only ono-half the distance of the length of a stitch, or from the point 2 to 3, Fig. l5. The next movement of the Work-support is the full depth of the recess Q3, which is twice that of the recess g4, and of course carries the stitch for the point 3 to the point 4, and this continues until the starting-surface q4is reached, when the last stitch is of the same length as the first. Thus by the construction shown in Fig. 14 both rows of barring-stitches are made to overlap the side stitches, as shown in Fig. l5.

In Figs. 18 and 19 I have shown a modified construction of the cams Q and R to eect the before-described movements of the work-support during the formation of barring-stitches. The cam Q, which imparts the desired jogging movements tothe work-support through plate II, is made in the form of a groove, as shown, having inner and outer Walls g5 and Q6, respectively, which engage the roller q of the stud Q. The cam R, which feeds the work-support transversely to the length of a buttonhole, is made in the form of a groove, as shown, having inner and outer Walls 15 and r6, respectively, which engage the roller R', mounted on the arm R3, secured to the plate H. By constructing the cams Q and .R in this mannerv a positive movement in both directions is given the plates Hand H' and the use of springs I-ls and H9 is obviated. These cams Ymay be made separate and secured together, as shown in Fig. 10,01' cut on opposite sides of a single piece, as shown in Fig. 19. These cams are rotated by the pawl S' and ratchet S2 in the manner heretofore described.

Vherever the words binding-stitches l occur throughout this specification or claims it is to be understood that I refer to lthe stitches formed on the sides of a-huttonholeslit and not to a special construction of stitch.`

NV'hat I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

1. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism comprising a'needle, and a Work-support,

mechanism for producing between said stitchforming mechanism and Work-support a relative feed and vibratory movement suitable for forming rows of stitches for the sides ot' a buttonhole, and mechanism for producing another relative movement for forming barring-stitches at each cud of and at substantially right vangles to. the aforesaidr rolls of side stitches, beginning at the center of the huttonhole and extending to one side thereof,

then across the end of the buttonhole to the other side thereof, and finally, back `to the starting-point, substantially as described.

2. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, the

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combination with stitch-forming mechanism -comprising a needle, and a Work-support,

mechanism for producing between said stitchforming mechanism and work-support a relative feed and vibratory movement suitable for forming rows of stitches for the sides of a buttonhole, and 'mechanism for producing another relative movement for forming'barring-stitches at each end of and at substantiallyright angles to the aforesaid rows of side tonhole and extending, to one side thereof, then across the end of the buttonhole to the other side thereof, and finally, back to the starting-point, and means to vary the extent of said movements,substantially as described-l 8. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, the

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stitches, beginning at the center of the butcombination with stitch-forming mechanism comprising a needle, and a Work-support, mechanism for producing between said stitchforming mechanism and work-support a relative feed and vibratory movement suitable forforming rows of stitches for the sides of a buttonhole, and mechanism for producing another relative movement for forming barring-stitches at each end of and at substantially right angles to the aforesaid rows ofside stitches, beginning at the center of :the buttonhole and extending to one side thereof,

then across the end of the buttonhole to the r other side thereof, and finally, back to the starting-point, whereby oneset of side and barring stitches isformed, and means Whereby these operations are repeated and the direction of the relative feed movements of the sewing mechanism and work-support lengthwise and crosswise of the buttonhole 'are reversed, thereby forming a second set of side and barring stitches similar to the first, substantially as described.

4. In a buttonhole-sewing machine,v the combination with sewing mechanism and a work-support, means comprisinga ratchetwheel for producing a relative feed between said sewing mechanism and work-support lengthwise of a buttonhole, an actuatingpawl for said wheel, means for producing a relative vibratory movement between the sewing mechanism and work-support transversely to the length of a buttonhole, mechanism adapted to operate automatically and periodically to engage and disengage the ratchet-actuating pawl, and mechanism for producing a relative feed between the sewing mechanism and work-support transversely to the length of a buttonhole and simultaneously therewith a relative vibratory movement between said devices lengthwise of a buttonhole immediately after the disengagement of the actuating-patri from said ratchetwheel, substantially as described.

5. In a bnttonhole-sewing machine, the combination with sewing mechanism and a work-support, of means comprising a ratchetwheel for producing a relative feed between said sewing mechanism and work-support lengthwise of a buttonhole,` an actuatingpawl for said wheel, means for producing a relative vibratory movement between the sewing mechanism and work-support transversely to the length of a buttonhole, means adapted to operate automatically and periodically to suspend the rotation of said ratchetwheel and mechanism actuated by said wheel to suspend said vibratory movement at the same time, substantially as described.

6. In a buttonhole -sewing machine, the combination with sewing mechanism and a Work-support, means comprising a ratchetwheel for producing a relative feed between said sewing mechanism and work-support lengthwise of a buttonhole, means to actuate said ratchet-wheel, means adapted to operate automatically and periodicallyto suspend the rotation of said wheel, mechanism to produce a relative vibratory movement between the sewing mechanism and the work support transversely to the length of the buttonhole, and a cam actuated by said ratchet-wheel to control the mechanism for producing said vibratory movement, said cam operatic g to suspend such vibratory movement at or about the time that rotation of said ratchet-wheel ceases, substantially as described.

7. In a buttonhole -sewing machine, the combination with sewing mechanism Vand a Work-support, of a pawl-actuated ratchetwheel, a pinion actuated by said ratchet, mechanism intermediate said pinion, and work-support whereby the said support is fed lengthwise of a buttonhole, means adapted to automatically and periodically move the ratchet-actuating pawl into and out ot' engagement with said wheel, a lever connected with the needle-bar of the sewing mechanism by means of a pitman to produce a vibratory movement ot the needle-bar, and means actuated by said pinion to adjust the point of connection between said lever and pit-man so as to make such connection coincident with the fulcrnm of said lever when the actuatingpaWl is disengaged from said ratchet-wheel, substantially as described.

8. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination of a needle-bar, means to reciprocate said bar, a lever and means to actuate the same, a pitman connected to said needlebar and lever, and means to adjust the pointl of connection between said pitman and lever to a point coincident with the fulcrum of said lever for a predetermined definite period or lengthwise ot' said lever to a point on either sideof its fulcrum, substantially as described.

9. A buttonhole-machine comprising a vibratory needle-bar, a lever for vibrating the same, means to actuate said lever, a pitman intermediate of the needle-bar and said lever and connected loosely with said lever so as to be capable of being adjusted coincident with the fulcrum of said lever for a predetermined deiinite period or along either arm of said lever, and a cam, and means actuated thereby for adjusting the point of connection between said pitman and lever, substantially as described.

lO. A buttonhole-machine comprising a vibratory needle-bar, a lever forvibrating the same, and means to actuate said lever, a pitman intermediate of the needle-bar and said lever and connected loosely with said lever so as to be capable of being adjusted coincident with the fulcrum of said lever or along either arm of said lever, a cam, consisting of three steps, and a lever actuated by said cam and connected with said pitman for adjusting the point of connection between said pitman and first-mentioned lever, substantially as described.

ll. A buttonhole-sewing machine, comprising an actuating-pitman and a lever with which said pitman has a sliding connection, a rod for adjusting the point of connection between said pitman and lever to a point coincident with the fulcrum of said lever for a predetermined definite period or lengthwise of said lever to a point on either side of its fulcrum, a second lever longitudinally slotted where it is connected with said rod, and a cam for operating said second lever, substantiall y as described.

l2. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, the combination with sewing mechanism and a work-support, of a ratchet-Wheel and mechanism connected therewith to feed said support, a plate having a ratchet-segment extending beyond the periphery of the ratchet- Y Wheel, a lever and means tc oscillate the same and two pawls on said lever, one pawl being IOO los

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ISO

in advance of the other and one of said pawls adapted to engage the teeth of said wheel and segment, and the second pawl to engage the segment only, and means to feed the ratchetsegment into position to be engaged by the said second pawl, whereby a positive feed is given said segment to cause the first-named pawl to fall out of engagement with the ratchet-wheel at substantially the end of the sewing of a set of side stitches, substantially as described.

13. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, the combination with sewing mechanism and a work-support, of 'a ratchet-wheel and mechanism connected therewith to feed said support, a lever having thereonv a pawl to rotate said ratchet-wheel, means to actuate said lever, a plate having a ratchet-segment and movable independently of said wheel, a second pawl on said lever in advance of the firstnamed pawl to engage said segment, and a pin secured to said ratchet-wheel and engaging said segment at a predetermined point in its travel, substantially as described.

14. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, the combination with sewing mechanism 4and a work-support, of means for producing a relative feed between said sewing mechanism and work-support lengthwise of a buttonhole, also for producing a relative vibratory movement between the sewing mechanism and work-support transversely of the length of a buttonhole for the formation of side stitches; independently-operated means for producing a relative feed between the sewing mechanism and work-support transversely to thelength of a buttonhole and simultaneously therewith a relative vibratory movement between said devices lengthwise of a buttonhole for the formation of barring-stitches, the side-stitch mechanism being operative while the barring mechanism is wholly inoperative, and means actuated by the former to bring the latter into operative position, substantially as described.

15. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, the combination with sewing mechanism and a work-support, of a ratchet-wheel and mechanism intermediate said wheel and support, whereby the latter is fed lengthwise of a buttonhole, a second ratchet-wheel and mechanism intermediate thereof and the work-support whereby the latter is moved transversely of the length of the buttonhole and at the same time vibrated in a direction lengthwise of the buttonhole, the second-named ratchetwheel being dormant while the Iirst is active, means actuated by the first-named wheel to bring the second ratchet-wheel into operative position, and means to actuate said wheels, substantially as described.

16,. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, the combination with sewing mechanism and a work-support, of a feed-wheel and mechanism actuated thereby to feed the said support in the direction of the length of a buttonhole, a second feed-wheel and mechanism actuated thereby to feed the work-support transversely to, and simultaneously therewith vibrate the same in the direction of the length of a buttonhole, said second feed-wheel being dormant while the other is active, a trip-piece actuated by said iirstnamed feed-wheel, means to actuate said feed-wheels, and a pawl-carrying arm to engage said second feedwheel lying inr the path of said trip-piece and actuated thereby after a predetermined length of travel of said first-named feed-wheel, substantially as described.

17. Ina buttonhole-sewing machine, the combination with sewing mechanism comprising a vibrating needle-bar and a work-support, of a ratchet-wheel and mechanism intermediate thereof and the work-supporti!) produce a feed of said supportlengthwise ofa buttonhole, a second ratchet-wheel and mechanism intermediate thereof and the worksupport to produce a vibratory movement of the work-support in the direction of thelength of a buttonhole and simultaneously therewith afeed movement transversely to the length of avbuttonhole, said second ratchet-wheel being'dorinant while the first-named ratchetwheel is active, andV means actuated by the latter to suspend the vibration of the needlebar and to bring said second ratchet-wheel into operative position after a predetermined length of travel of said first-'named ratchetwheel, substantially as described.

18. In a buttonhole-sewing machine the combination with sewing mechanism and a work-support, of a slotted plate connected to said support, a cam and means to rotate the same, a cam-follower secured to a lever fulcrumed on a suitable stud', and adjustable means cooperating with the slot of said plate to clamp said lever to said plate, whereby the amplitude of movement of said plate may be varied substantially as described.

19. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, the combination withsewing mechanism and a work-support, of a barring mechanism'comprising a plate connected with the work-carrier, a second plate having guides which snpport the first-named plate, a stud immova ly fixed to the bed of the machine, two cams mounted on said stud, means for rotating said cams, and two cam-followers one on each vof said plates and each engaging one of said cams, whereby the Work-support is fed transversely to and simultaneously vibrated inthe direction of the length of a buttonhole, substantially as described.

20. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism and a work-support, of a barring mechanism comprising a plate connected to said support, said plate movably supported in guides fixed to a second plate, said second plate, a stud immovably fixed to the bed of the machine and passing through clearance-openings in said plates, said stud hav-ing mounted thereon two cams,- means for rotating said cams, and two cam-followers onel on each of said IOO IIO

il. O

plates and each engaging one ot' said cams,

. whereby the Work-carrier is fed transversely to and simultaneously Vibrated in the direction of the length of a buttonhole, substantially as described.

2l. In a bnttonhole-sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, of a Work-support, a plate connected to said support, means to vibrate said plate so as to produce a vibratory motion of the work-sup'- port lengthwise of the buttonhole, and means to limit the movement of said plate to vary the bight of the stitches, substantially as described.

22. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, the combination ot' stitch-forming mechanism, of a work-support, a plate connected therewith, means to vibrate said plate so as to produce a vibratory motion of the work-support lengthwise of a buttonhole, and an adjustable stop fixed to the bed ofthe machine and against which said plate abuts, whereby the bight of the stitches may be varied, substantially as described.

23. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, the combination with sewing mechanism and a work-support, of a slotted plate connected to said support, a cam to feed said plate transversely to the length of a buttonhole, a slot ted arm carrying a cam-follower in contact with said cam, said arm being pivoted to the hed-plate, and a set-screw adjustable along the length ot' the slots of said slotted plate and arm whereby the length' of the rows of barring-stitches may be varied, substantially as described.

24j In a buttonhole-sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism and a work-feeding mechanism, of means for controlling said mechanisms for producing side stitches, and independent automatic means for controlling said mechanisms for producing barring-stitches at substantially a right angle to and overlapping a portion of said side stitches While the work is maintained in the same relative position to the stitch-forming mechanism.

25. In a bottonhole-sewiug machi11e,.the

Vcombination with sewing mechanism and a work-support, of means for producing side stitches, means for prod ucing barring-stitches at substantially a right angle to the side stitches comprising a plate secured to the Work-support, a cam-followersecnred to said plate, a cam bearing against said follower so constructed as to move said plate the full depth of the stitch except the first and last stitches., whereby the barring-stitches may be made to overlap the side stitches at both ends ofthe buttonhole, and means to actuate said cam substantially as described.

27.` In a buttonhole-sewing machine, the combination of a needle-bar, a frame in which said bar is mounted, said frame having a stud rotatably adjustable therein and carrying a disk having a stud set eccentrically thereon, a pitman connected to said last-named stud and means to reciprocate said pitman, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

JAMES T. HOGAN.

Witnesses:

H. COUTANT, CHARLES S. JONES.

Correction 'm Letters Patent No. 694,150.

It is hereby Certified that in Letters Patent No. 694,150, granted February 25, 1902, upon the application of J ames T. Hogan, of Jersey City, New Jersey, for an improvement in Buttonhole-Sewing Machines, an error appears in the printed specification requiring correction, as follows In line 94, page 7, the Word rolls should read rows; and that the said Letters Patent should be read With this correction therein that the same may conform to the record of the ease in the Patent Ofoe.

Signed, oountersigned, and sealed this 11th day of March, A. D., 1902.

[SEAL] F. L. CAMPBELL,

Assistant Secretary of the Interior.

Gountersigned z F. I. ALLEN,

Commissioner of Patents. 

